Last February I had my first winter excursion to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It was quite the adventure; as I hiked the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive on foot in drifts of snow and ice below my feet. I loved it so much I decided to go back earlier this month. This trip presented a whole new set of unique challenges that were not planned. I had checked weather reports and planned accordingly. However, weather forecasts were a bit off the mark, and instead of a few inches of snow during the two day excursion; the Sleeping Bear Dunes area was hit with nearly two feet of snow in a 36 hour period. Visibility was low at times and taking photographs became much more difficult.
I started the day out at Point Betsie Lighthouse. I had gotten there just in time and was able to get a couple shots before a massive snow squall hit the lakeshore. Viewing the lighthouse was a stark contrast to the times I had visited during the summer. Solid ice was formed on the breakers and the break-wall in front of the lighthouse. I was the only person on the beach that had several visitors during the summer months. Standing out on the frozen beach in the early hours of the morning created an eerie mood to what has been described as the most photographed lighthouse in Michigan.
The snow came down hard as I made it into Sleeping Bear Dunes. This past fall I discovered the Platte River area and returned there for a second glance this time around. The snow was falling at a rate of two inches per hour. Visibility was limited to two feet in front of me. I waited the snow out as much as I could and got a few shots of the river’s mouth at Lake Michigan. It was interesting walking on the pebble filled beach. The small stones were frozen to the sand making walking on the beach area a lot easier. It was as if I were walking on cement walkway.
The snow stopped for a little while as I reached Esch Beach giving me some time to take some shots of this area. I had pretty much gotten some good shots of the beach from last year, so I concentrated on the Otter Creek area just a few feet down the shore. The snow had stopped, but the wind was blowing hard. Along the banks of the creek were snow mounds shaped by the wind and sand. The banks of snow took on a similar formation to rock formations seen in Utah. As the wind blew the snow on top of the formations flew out into the creek. It was an interesting sight to see.
Sleeping Bear Dunes has so many unique places and there is a lot to see. However, I broke away for a bit and drove into the town of Empire nestled in between the boundaries of Sleeping Bear Dunes. The town has a small park between South Bar Lake and Lake Michigan with a small little lighthouse. The lighthouse stands 35 feet tall and is an active beacon of light along the shoreline. It is one of the smallest lighthouse structures I have seen in a while. The lighthouse is dedicated to Robert Manning, a local fisherman who wanted to have a lighthouse to guide his way back to shore. The lighthouse was created in his memory when he died in 1989.
There was much more of the Sleeping Bear Dunes to discover. The snow the first day there was quite heavy and limited many photograph opportunities. I was hoping that the snow would let up a little bit the next day to get enough shots to make the trip worthwhile. The winter season can be unpredictable. In photography there are times where you cannot always plan on perfect weather. Many times you just have to go with what you have and make the best of it.
By Guest Blogger Michael Thorton of VisitTraverseCity.com
We liked Michael Thorton’s January 3rd blog article so much that we asked him if we could post it on our Dune Bog. Michael captures the magical winter experience of Sleeping Bear Dunes. Enjoy! (Blog article published with permission from VisitTraverseCity.com blog)
Skiers at Dunes Overlook (Courtesy of Mike Norton)
I’ve lived in the Traverse City area for more than 30 years, but the beauty of this region still has the power to amaze me. Last week, for instance, I spent a day hanging out at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a place I’ve visited many times in every season of the year. Still, I was stunned by how beautiful it can be in winter.
It was one of those perfect blue winter days, of course — with the sun shining down on the snow, the sand and the water, bringing out all the best of their colors. I could hardly bring myself to leave, even with the sun getting ready to set. I have to say that Sleeping Bear’s glacier-scoured landscape of ridges, bluffs, lakes, and islands is even more appealing clothed in snow than it is in other times of the year: a wild and primeval setting for skiers, snowshoers, anglers and campers.
Hikers along the top of the Dune Climb (Courtesy of Mike Norton)
Although it’s barely 20 minutes west of Traverse City, the park operates at an undeniably slower pace in winter. There are few rangers in evidence, and some roads (including the popular Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive) are closed to traffic because they can’t be reliably kept clear of blowing snow and sand.
Still, but because of its linear layout, most corners of Sleeping Bear are within a few miles of the highway. And many attractions and amenities remain open all year round – including the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire, where rangers and interpreters can give you a quick rundown on what’s happening.
The visitor center also has a small museum, bookstore and auditorium, and is open in the winter from 8:15 to 4 p.m. It’s also the place where you can join one of the park’s most enjoyable winter group activities: guided snowshoe hikes. On Saturdays and Sundays in January and February, park rangers lead groups in leisurely trips to some of Sleeping Bear’s most interesting winter features. (They even provide free snowshoes for those who don’t have their own.)
A Lone Lookout in the Frozen Dunes (Courtesy of Mike Norton)
But the best part about using snowshoes at Sleeping Bear is that you’re free to leave the trail system pretty much whenever you want. Because the park’s soils and vegetation are easily harmed, rangers are fairly strict with hikers during most of the year — but in winter the rules are much more relaxed, and snowshoeing is allowed on all snow-covered dunes, fields, and forests.
Cross-country skiing is probably the most popular winter sport in the Lakeshore, and the park has designated several trails for Nordic skiers, from relatively flat routes like Platte Plains, Windy Moraine, Good Harbor Bay and Bay View to challenging routes like the Old Indian and Alligator Hill trails. And although the Stocking Scenic Drive is closed to auto traffic for the winter, it’s open to skiers and snowshoers alike during the winter.
Unlike some parks, Sleeping Bear does not permit snowmobiles on land or on the surface of its frozen lakes. But ice fishing on those lakes is allowed, and many anglers find winter the most rewarding time of year to visit the Lakeshore. Fish aren’t the only wildlife that’s stirring in the park in winter, either — deer, coyote, fox, porcupines and otters are active and can sometimes be spotted more easily than in summer.
Walking the Shipwreck Trail near Glen Haven (Courtesy of Mike Norton)
That’s also true, strangely, of shipwrecks. Between 1835 and 1960 more than 50 ships sank offshore in the narrow strait known as the Manitou Passage; thanks to strong winds, many pieces of those long-ago wrecks wash ashore during the winter. Many beachcombers look for relics along what’s called the Shipwreck Trail, between the ghost port of Glen Haven and the shore south of Sleeping Bear Point.
An even more thrilling winter experience can be sampled at the famous Dune Climb near Glen Haven, where the Park Service allows sledding on the 260-foot face of the dune. It’s the only dune where such activities are allowed. (But bring your second-best sled — the combination of snow and windblown sand can be pretty gritty!)
Sledding at the Dune Climb (Courtesy of Mike Norton)
Michael Norton is the media relations director for the Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau. A resident of Old Mission, he spends as much time as he can in the beautiful Northern Michigan outdoors. He is a regular blogger at www.traversecity.com.
By guest blogger and photographer, Cindy Ratowski.
Whenever the light is right, it is a tug on my soul. Get out there. Whatever you have on the schedule for the day can wait. It is almost…almost…who am I kidding? It is an addiction.
Photography…I love to live it.
Being able to do what I love where I live is something I do not take for granted. I am blessed to live in Northern Michigan, to photograph and to share what is here with anyone that cares to look. Nature, quaint towns, unique architecture, wildlife and interesting people make it a wonderful back drop for any photographer or artist.
Thoreson Farm
On December 14th I knew I needed to get paperwork and other tedious details taken care of. But the pull to get out there is so very difficult for me…it’s in my soul and brain. My excuse for avoiding the mundane duties came in the form of a phone call.
A student, Brook Shank, from the TBA Tech Center was to arrive around lunch time to be my shadow for the day. As we talked and shared, we came to the conclusion that Port Oneida would be the place to go. Although Brook was a native to the area she had never been to the historic town. We just had to go.
Sleeping Bear Dunes, the lake shore and the surrounding area are the back drop for many of my portraits and nature shots…I dare to say, I call it “my office.” So for technical purposes we were going to be in the “office” all day.
The first stop was one of my favorites, Thoreson Farm. I just love this farm. The setting of the barns, the house, and the very picturesque outhouse surrounded by hollyhocks in the summer and snow drifts in the winter was the place to start. The sky was an amazing mottled gray and blue with the sun peeking out periodically. It was another perfect day in Northern Michigan.
We wandered the grounds and handed my camera back and forth. Brook was amazed that she had never been there before. We talked about the history of the farms in this area. We both agreed that it is fascinating to imagine what life was like during the time when all of the farms were occupied in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. I think about how difficult life must have been, but also how wonderful to be surrounded by all the beauty when the work was finished.
Olsen Barn
We moved from the Thoreson Farm to the Olsen Farm in a natural progression. The Olsen Farm barn is amazing…such character and in such a wonderful setting. I think most photographs of the barn are taken from the road in the fall. I like to be different, so we pulled into the plowed driveway to have a closer look at some different angles. I brought four lenses with me that we changed periodically to get a new perspective on each subject.
We continued on to the farm across from the Kelderhouse Cemetery to take a few carefully-selected shots. The Kelderhouse Cemetery was next. There is something about a historical cemetery that intrigues me. These were those people that lived here. What were they like?
Both Brook and I were getting a bit cold, so we took a ride up by the Leelanau-Kohana Camp at the tip of Pyramid Point. I told her about the farm homestead that sits on the ridge overlooking Lake Michigan. It is a place I take my kids to swim. It has a fabulous view from the beach of North and South Manitou Islands.
Thoreson Barn
The day sadly came to an end; it was time to head back to reality. Brook had to go to her job and I had to meet my kids at the bus stop. What a wonderful day of travelling back in time with a student who was headed for a promising future. Life is excellent in Northern Michigan and so was being shadowed for a day.
By guest blogger Jim DuFresne of MichiganTrailMaps.com
With a stiff wind and a few snow flakes in our faces, a chill running down our backs and heavy surf that was lapping at our boots, we thanked our lucky stars for the perfect conditions. You may want sun and calm conditions when going skiing or day hiking, but the only way to search for shipwrecks is with a storm on the horizon.
We had one. The dark clouds of a late November blow were sweeping across Lake Michigan, putting white caps on the water and throwing a spattering of wet snow that made us snap the top button of our jackets.
As we trudged through the sand looking for the remains of sailor’s mishaps from the century before, we could almost feel the fear the seamen must have felt upon entering the Manitou Passage, a graveyard for ships in the 19th century. Between 1835 and 1960 more than 50 ships sunk in the passage between the Manitou Islands to the north and the mainland shoreline around Sleeping Bear Point.
The staff at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has put together a brochure entitled “Beachcombing for Shipwrecks” and says this is a great time to search. Their reasoning? Storms, and the strong surf they produce, increase the chances bits of shipwrecks will wash ashore.
We like starting at Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Station. Though closed for the season, the old Lifesaving Station and boat house provides an added maritime touch to our treasure hunt. From there we head northwest, following the beach to Sleeping Bear Point.
Occasionally referred to as the Shipwreck Trail, the beach is an easy round-trip hike of only two miles where it’s impossible to get lost. Just keep one eye on the water and the other for bits of water-logged wood in the sand.
Most of the wrecks were driven by November gales into shallow water and then subsequently torn to pieces by waves and then ice. Search the sandy shore for pieces of white oak which are black when wet but white on the outside when they have a chance to dry out.
You can also identify shipwreck remnants by the cast iron hardware; spikes, rods, bolts and even rings, that are often still attached to the timber.
Once you find a piece, in the park brochure there is a drawing to help you identify what part of the ship you stumbled across and even has some tips of how to age it. Ships of the early 19th century had wooden pegs as well as iron pins while bolts and nuts usually indicate a later vessel.
If the water level is low enough, you don’t have to wander too far up the point to find a wreck. Within a quarter mile of the station is a large piece of the James McBride, a brig that sank in 1857, of which almost 60 feet of it has been exposed on and off for the past few years.
Standing on the shore, looking at the wreck just below the water while a cold wind batters the surf is enough to send shivers down the spine of any sailor or even landlubbers searching of shipwrecks.
Don’t miss the latest Sleeping Bear Dune shipwreck find that washed up on the beach just after the October 2010 super storm; experts speculate it is the remains of a wooden ship from the 1800′s. See spectacular photos of the October 2010 storm and the story behind the photos, by guest blogger Mark Lindsay.
For a complete description of the trails in Sleeping Bear Dunes go to MichiganTrailMaps.com.
Got snow? The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore does. A lot of it!
This year’s winter wonderland is just too wonderful to pass up, so get out there and explore. Excellent snow conditions have inspired the park to schedule additional snowshoe hikes on Sunday, January 18th and Sunday, January 25th.
These are in addition to the snowshoe walks offered every Saturday through the end of February or later, if conditions permit. Each hike will start by meeting at the Philip Hart Visitor Center (VC) in Empire at 1:00 p.m. If you don’t have your own snowshoes, you may use a pair free of charge by calling ahead for a reservation. Please note these popular walks have been using up all of our “loaner” snowshoes, so get your reservation in early!
Inside the Visitor Center, a park ranger will distribute the “loaner” snowshoes and provide basic snowshoeing instructions.Then the ranger will lead everyone in their own cars to the trailhead of the day. On the trail, the ranger will help participants identify flora and fauna, learn more about the Lakeshore’s unique features, and witness the effects winter has on both.Visitors should arrive prepared to be outside for about an hour and a half. To be most comfortable and warm, dress in layers and wear waterproof boots. The program will conclude by 3:00 p.m. at the trailhead. Note that the VC closes at 4:00 p.m., should you want or need to go back after the walk.
Snowshoeing is easy, fun, and good exercise! If you can walk, then you can snowshoe, so it is also an activity that can be enjoyed by all ages. The ranger-led hikes are mildly strenuous, yet they proceed at a leisurely pace for only 0.5 – 1.5 miles. This allows visitors an opportunity for discovery, adventure, and to look for signs of wildlife or evidence of ancient glaciers. Some snowshoers simply want to experience and enjoy a winter wonderland, and that is what you will find at the National Lakeshore. Be aware that Rangers usually select a different location each week, so experiences vary.
The walk and snowshoe loan are free. However, participants need to purchase a park entrance pass or display an annual pass in their vehicle to join in the fun. Park passes cost $10/vehicle and are good for seven days.The annual pass costs $20 and is valid for a year from the month of purchase. Teachers and other group leaders may also schedule a ranger to take their group snowshoeing this winter. Please call 231-326-5134, extension 328, for details and to make reservations. For more in-depth information about Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, go to www.nps.gov/slbe.
The best priced lift and lodging packages with unlimited chances to win $25,000 in prizes-The Homestead celebrates its 25Th Anniversary
In 1983, The Homestead set out to build a different type of Northern Michigan snow-sport destination. It was to be located in one of America’s most beautiful natural settings-the wooded hilltops overlooking Lake Michigan in the heart of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It was to be built with an unmatched commitment to maintaining the area’s unique beauty and an unwavering dedication to providing the best food, accommodations, and service. And, it was to buck the idea that more-is-better by limiting lift tickets to provide an un-crowded ski and snowboarding experience.
The people responded! And that’s the reason to celebrate!
“Couples looking for a romantic winter getaway and families with young children helped us become the North’s most civilized snow-sport destination,” says Jamie Jewell, Senior Manager at The Homestead. “Now seemed a great time to say thanks.”
One way the resort is celebrating is by offering guests special 25th Anniversary Packages. That means the best prices in the North-guaranteed-for lifts and lodging. Starting December 26th, a couple can enjoy a romantic two-night stay for as little as $164 a night…a family of four, for as little as $197 per night.
Another way The Homestead is celebration their anniversary season is through its “25th Anniversary Skistakes.” That means special weekly give-aways for winter, spring, and summer vacation packages totaling $25,000! Guests can enter at any of the resort’s facilities. The public can enter at selected ski shops throughout the state. Drawings will be held and winners announced every Sunday from December 29th to March 27th.
“We invite everyone to visit our new website-www.thehomesteadresort.com-to see the amazing list of prizes and to see the names of each week’s winners,” says Jewell.
“Our guests drive hundreds of miles to get here,” adds Jewell. “And the drop in fuel prices and savings built into our twenty-fifth anniversary packages now make a winter visit at The Homestead more affordable than ever.”
To make this celebration last all season, The Homestead has a host of special activities planned for guests-live outdoor music, DJ’s, a film festival, magicians, ice carvers, and carolers.
“We’ll even have hot cider and chestnuts roasting on an open fire!” says Jewell. “The number of guests who return year after year speaks to the quality of the ski and snowboarding experience at The Homestead. With this celebration we’re looking forward to seeing familiar faces while also welcoming a whole new generation of skiers and snowboarders to come enjoy all the resort has to offer.”
“This poem came about as I began playing with alliteration,” says Debra Kraft of Pinckney, Michigan. “The recurring sound of the letter ‘s’ began to make me think of sand in a whispering wind, and ultimately of the dunes. Over a period of months, I found myself adding words, changing words, and experimenting with formats until I finally arrived at the current version, which is intended to give the visual appearance of a dune or hill that gradually descends from the summit, but not at a consistent angle. Portions of this poem, like the dunes that inspired it, remind me of being a child. Too small to make the climb, I slid backwards and giggled in “silly shrill squeals” with every step I took.”
Sleeping Bear Dunes
the wind
whispers sifting
shifting soft streams
of sliding sand gliding
sand swirling in swiftly
whipping a gift of frivolous
spores seeping into the pores of
every poured drifter who wanders
unwary enticing toes buried in sun
washed white grains it summons sweet
strains out of childish play an inane serenade
in silly shrill squeals such delicious soft peals
sneaking snickering laughs amidst challenging
gaffs from scavenging gulls scoring lost souvenirs
slyly ravaging holes in soul-stealing pride as each
downward ride sends more sand shifting and sifting
and drifting and streaming as sliders slip into dreaming
soon blissfully scheming to finally surrender to old mother
bear who’s always there watching awaiting her small island
cubs sand-worn and weary s u s p e n d e d i n t i m e
Debra Kraft attended Wayne State University as a merit scholar in the early 80s, where she studied under Detroit poet M.L. Liebler. Recent publishing credits include a poetry book published in 2004, and a fantasy novella, “A Throne’s Stowaway,” published last year in the web-based magazine Lorelei Signal. Her speculative poem “In the End” is expected to appear in Aberrant Dreamsbefore the end of this year. More of her poetry can be found through her website, www.dmkraft.com.
Now that the snow has arrived, join a National Park Ranger on snowshoes and explore Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in all its winter splendor! Snowshoe walks are offered every Saturday beginning December 29, and continuing through the end of February. Meet at the Lakeshore Visitor Center in Empire at 1:00 p.m. If you don’t have your own, snowshoes will be provided free of charge. If there is not enough snow, rangers will still offer a guided winter hike.
Inside the Visitor Center, park rangers will first provide basic snowshoeing instructions, and then everyone will travel by car to the trailhead or area the ranger has pre-selected. Once there, the ranger will encourage participants to learn about the park’s unique features and winter’s effect on them. Visitors should arrive prepared and plan to be outside until about 3:00 p.m. To be most comfortable, dress in layers and wear waterproof boots.
Not only is snowshoeing easy, fun, and good exercise, it is also an activity that can be enjoyed by all ages. The ranger-led hikes are mildly strenuous, yet they proceed at a leisurely pace for only one and a half miles at the most. This allows visitors an opportunity for discovery, adventure, and to look for signs of wildlife or evidence of ancient glaciers. Some snowshoers simply want to experience and enjoy a winter wonderland, and that is what you will find at the National Lakeshore.
The National Park Service has a supply of snowshoes for use within the Lakeshore. Participants need only purchase the park entrance pass or have an annual pass to join in the fun. Reservations are not required but are suggested, especially if you wish to borrow snowshoes or are with a group. Please call 231-326-5134, extension 328, for details and to make reservations. For more in-depth information about Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, go to www.nps.gov/slbe.
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